Link to RMGT article published December 2011
Keep your wine program fresh and stay up with the latest trends to keep your customer’s coming back for more.
Next year is expected to see a resurgence of the classics, such as Château Margaux, Bordeaux (above).
Thanksgiving festivities have passed, but the leftovers keep on giving. The Christmas wreaths are hung, and the smell of fresh pine fills the air. Champagne is stocked in the cellar in anticipation of the celebratory midnight toast. Holiday carols play on repeat as the crackling fireplace defrosts December’s chill, and your wine list reflects the warm winter flavors. But now it’s time to prepare for next year’s trends.
Just as bell-bottom jeans were popular in the ’70s and de rigueur last spring, so are wine trends cyclical. Malbec has seen its heyday; Merlot still has a bad reputation. And people either love or think they hate Chardonnay. Next year, we can expect to see a return to the classics.
“One of the up-and-coming regions to look for value is wines from Spain,” says Patrick Okubo, managing partner for Formaggio Grill in Kailua, Hawaii. “Areas such as Priorat, Navarra and Aragon are places that grow French varieties that we're comfortable with, such as Grenache, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines are often blended with Spanish varieties such as Verdelho or Tempranillo, mixing comfort with something unique.” Okubo recommends Abadia Retuerta Rivola made from Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon, an affordable selection for under $20.
Eric Crane, who does training and development for Empire Distributors Inc., focused in Georgia and North Carolina, agrees that people will go back to drinking wines from Burgundy, Bordeaux, Ribera del Duero, Loire and Alsace.
Charlie Plummer, regional manager in California and Nevada for Jackson Family Enterprises, says the superb vintages of 2006 and 2007 have inspired growing popularity for classic Napa and Sonoma wineries. “I'm starting to see a renewed interest from buyers looking to add depth to their list by way of library wines (mostly ’90s and early 2000s). Particularly wineries like Freemark Abbey's single-vineyard Rutherford Cabernets, La Jota's Howell Mountain Cabernets and Arrowood Cabernets.”
Plummer says buyers are drawn in by the current releases and eager to learn and share the winery’s history by making library wines, or older vintages, available on their list. “It's a walk back in time for your restaurant guests,” he says.
To find library selections for your list, I encourage you to inquire with the winery directly. Buyers need to be aware that only a handful can accommodate such requests. According to Plummer, most of the bigger corporate wine companies have purged their libraries before 2000. The continued consolidation of corporate wine companies limits the number of Napa and Sonoma wineries that actually carry library wines back to the late ’70s and early ’80s.
For value wines, South America still trumps any other region. “I think if people aren’t entertaining South America, they are really missing out on making money for themselves,” Crane says. “In this economy, restaurateurs need to make money, and sommeliers should run the program this way.”
Don’t be scared to please the crowds, but don’t compromise your standards. You can find wines that are going to be comfortable and provide a robust experience for your guest.
“Malbec from Argentina still represents the best price-to-value on the market,” Plummer says. Instead of the typical Malbec from Mendoza, try a Tannat from Uruguay, Carménère from Chile, or Pinot Noir from Patagonia. Or try an international-style Malbec, such as Cot from Cahors, France. Either way, Malbec and South American wines haven’t lost popularity yet.
Another region to consider for mid-priced wines is Australia. The country has been enthusiastically promoting a regional identity in the U.S. Take the neighborhood wine shop, for example. Australia used to have one lonely shelf among its competitors. Today, however, it is separated into different regions such as Margaret River, McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley.
“I think we will see more sommeliers talking about the $30 to $50 Australian wine that is pretty darn delicious at an everyday level,” Crane says. “If you spend $100, you can get a really well-balanced wine that works great with food.”
For the first time ever last year, Americans consumed more wine overall than the French (who still lead in per-capita consumption). According to the Wine Institute in San Francisco, domestic wine sales grew by 7 percent. Americans also spent more per bottle. People are growing increasingly curious about wine and want to learn more. Where there’s a demand, the supply will soon follow.
“Education in our industry is starting to get rolling,” Crane says. “Sommeliers are a fantastic resource, and the service staff is starting to understand the importance of wine knowledge.”
Whether you have a sommelier or a well-educated staff, staff training and awareness are musts for 2012. The dining experience is becoming more involved. Guests expect to learn more about the wines they already love. Or they want to be introduced to new wines that fit their palate preferences.
To keep customers happy, it’s important to keep your wine program fresh and stay up with the trends. Wine is just as vital an accompaniment to a meal as salt and pepper, adding a new dimension to the dining experience. Don’t miss the opportunity to provide a rich experience with the latest trends.
Wednesday, January 4, 2012
Wines for Holiday Parties
Link to RMGT article published November 2011
Getting through the holidays one glass at a time.
This holiday season, think outside the typical wine box and leave your guests talking.
Each passing holiday season allows the opportunity to imbibe our favorite seasonal cocktails. Whether it be hot buttered rum at the annual party, eggnog by the wood-burning fireplace or hot spiced cider while opening presents, these drinks become a part of our collective memory. As wide ranging in style, size and cultural backgrounds as holiday parties can be, there are equally as many wines to suit each occasion.
“One of my favorite things during the holidays is going home to visit family and sitting around the fireplace,” says Rachael Lowe, beverage director of the Trump International Hotel and Tower Chicago. “We start with Champagne, move to a white, and then a red while sitting by the Christmas tree at the dinner table.”
Affordable wines for large scale wine parties
The holidays provide an opportunity to share holiday cheer with coworkers. Without the proper execution, these moments can quickly turn sour. In a Christmas episode of The Office, manager Michael Scott ruined the yuletide mood after sabotaging a secret Santa gift exchange. To say that it resulted in an uncomfortable situation would be an understatement. His attempt to recover by plying his employees with cheap vodka created an even worse situation. In his own defense: “Stupid corporate wet blankets. Like booze ever killed anybody."
To avoid an awkward holiday party moment like this, make sure the wine is flowing so the conversation will follow suit. The ideal work party wine is something that goes down smoothly and is easy on the corporate budget.
“Look for affordable areas that people don’t necessarily recognize,” says Lowe. “I like wine from small regions where you can get good value, like southwest France, southern Italy and Spain.” She recommends Domaine la Croix-Belle, Vins de Pays, Côtes de Thongue les Calades Syrah from Languedoc, France.
Dining Room Manager of Kendall College in Chicago, Wanda Cole, advocates sparkling wine. “It serves many purposes,” says Cole. “It is food friendly and provides an ambience of celebration and prosperity. You don’t just have to be celebrating New Year’s Eve to drink bubbly.”
She recommends either a Prosecco or a Cava that is approachable and not too sweet, such as Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco from Valdobbiadene, Italy.
Off the beaten tracks wines to impress even the wine snob
Wine doesn’t have to be intimidating or cut into your retirement account. It is a story. Whether that is about a family tradition, a unique terroir, or an off the beaten track gem, the enthusiast wants to be surprised and delighted. Look for a wine with a story when you are debating your gift for the wine enthusiasts’ holiday soiree.
Lowe recommends Azienda Agricola Cos, Nero d'Avola from Sicily, Italy 2001. “It is really well-rounded and drinks beautifully,” says Lowe. “I have shown it to friends who are ardent Burgundy fanatics that loved it.”
The winery is located on the southeastern peak of Sicily on the plateau of Victoria. The vines are 50 years old and were historically cultivated before the birth of Vittoria in 1607. The wines are produced from the only DOCG of Sicily and located 820 feet above sea level.
“I recommend Pierre Péters Champagne because it is a smaller grower and is able to maintain its house style consistently,” says Cole.
The Pierre Péters Estate, located in the Côte des Blancs in Le Mesnil sur Oger, has a rich history and has been producing the Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Champagne since 1919. The 45 acres of chardonnay, located in Mesnil sur Oger, Oger, Avize and Cramant, average to be 30 years old. It is a grower-producer house, meaning it makes Champagne from at least 95 percent of estate-grown fruit. It produces 13,000 cases annually, in comparison to1.4 million cases for the Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label.
Wines for celebratory occasions
The holidays are a time for family gatherings, celebration and lifting a glass to toast. What better than Champagne to enjoy moments of celebration with your loved ones? In the words of the Notorious B.I.G. himself: “Birthdays was the worst days; now we sip champagne when we thirsty.”
Cole prefers the Veuve Clicquot Rosé for a mid-range priced Champagne, although her favorite higher-end is the Fleur de Champagne by Perrier-Jouët. “The first time I had it was the day that I passed the level one exam through the Court of Master Sommeliers. It was very clean, had good fruit, nice depth, great acidity, and a beautiful mousse.”
Tan Huynh, CEO and Sommelier of Crudo, a consulting firm for the Willamette Valley wine industry, recommends Argyle for a new world sparkling wine, but his preferred Champagne is Bollinger Grande Année 2000. “It goes well with Asian cuisine, and deep fried, smoky, and salty food. It refreshes your palate and gets you ready for another bite.”
When pairing wine for an event, Huynh considers the main dish. He builds the food around that, taking sauces into consideration as well. Last year, he paired a 2000 Margaux with prime rib that guests are still raving about.
“My belief is that a meal without wine is like a day without sunshine,” says Huynh.
Getting through the holidays one glass at a time.
This holiday season, think outside the typical wine box and leave your guests talking.
Each passing holiday season allows the opportunity to imbibe our favorite seasonal cocktails. Whether it be hot buttered rum at the annual party, eggnog by the wood-burning fireplace or hot spiced cider while opening presents, these drinks become a part of our collective memory. As wide ranging in style, size and cultural backgrounds as holiday parties can be, there are equally as many wines to suit each occasion.
“One of my favorite things during the holidays is going home to visit family and sitting around the fireplace,” says Rachael Lowe, beverage director of the Trump International Hotel and Tower Chicago. “We start with Champagne, move to a white, and then a red while sitting by the Christmas tree at the dinner table.”
Affordable wines for large scale wine parties
The holidays provide an opportunity to share holiday cheer with coworkers. Without the proper execution, these moments can quickly turn sour. In a Christmas episode of The Office, manager Michael Scott ruined the yuletide mood after sabotaging a secret Santa gift exchange. To say that it resulted in an uncomfortable situation would be an understatement. His attempt to recover by plying his employees with cheap vodka created an even worse situation. In his own defense: “Stupid corporate wet blankets. Like booze ever killed anybody."
To avoid an awkward holiday party moment like this, make sure the wine is flowing so the conversation will follow suit. The ideal work party wine is something that goes down smoothly and is easy on the corporate budget.
“Look for affordable areas that people don’t necessarily recognize,” says Lowe. “I like wine from small regions where you can get good value, like southwest France, southern Italy and Spain.” She recommends Domaine la Croix-Belle, Vins de Pays, Côtes de Thongue les Calades Syrah from Languedoc, France.
Dining Room Manager of Kendall College in Chicago, Wanda Cole, advocates sparkling wine. “It serves many purposes,” says Cole. “It is food friendly and provides an ambience of celebration and prosperity. You don’t just have to be celebrating New Year’s Eve to drink bubbly.”
She recommends either a Prosecco or a Cava that is approachable and not too sweet, such as Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco from Valdobbiadene, Italy.
Off the beaten tracks wines to impress even the wine snob
Wine doesn’t have to be intimidating or cut into your retirement account. It is a story. Whether that is about a family tradition, a unique terroir, or an off the beaten track gem, the enthusiast wants to be surprised and delighted. Look for a wine with a story when you are debating your gift for the wine enthusiasts’ holiday soiree.
Lowe recommends Azienda Agricola Cos, Nero d'Avola from Sicily, Italy 2001. “It is really well-rounded and drinks beautifully,” says Lowe. “I have shown it to friends who are ardent Burgundy fanatics that loved it.”
The winery is located on the southeastern peak of Sicily on the plateau of Victoria. The vines are 50 years old and were historically cultivated before the birth of Vittoria in 1607. The wines are produced from the only DOCG of Sicily and located 820 feet above sea level.
“I recommend Pierre Péters Champagne because it is a smaller grower and is able to maintain its house style consistently,” says Cole.
The Pierre Péters Estate, located in the Côte des Blancs in Le Mesnil sur Oger, has a rich history and has been producing the Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Champagne since 1919. The 45 acres of chardonnay, located in Mesnil sur Oger, Oger, Avize and Cramant, average to be 30 years old. It is a grower-producer house, meaning it makes Champagne from at least 95 percent of estate-grown fruit. It produces 13,000 cases annually, in comparison to1.4 million cases for the Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label.
Wines for celebratory occasions
The holidays are a time for family gatherings, celebration and lifting a glass to toast. What better than Champagne to enjoy moments of celebration with your loved ones? In the words of the Notorious B.I.G. himself: “Birthdays was the worst days; now we sip champagne when we thirsty.”
Cole prefers the Veuve Clicquot Rosé for a mid-range priced Champagne, although her favorite higher-end is the Fleur de Champagne by Perrier-Jouët. “The first time I had it was the day that I passed the level one exam through the Court of Master Sommeliers. It was very clean, had good fruit, nice depth, great acidity, and a beautiful mousse.”
Tan Huynh, CEO and Sommelier of Crudo, a consulting firm for the Willamette Valley wine industry, recommends Argyle for a new world sparkling wine, but his preferred Champagne is Bollinger Grande Année 2000. “It goes well with Asian cuisine, and deep fried, smoky, and salty food. It refreshes your palate and gets you ready for another bite.”
When pairing wine for an event, Huynh considers the main dish. He builds the food around that, taking sauces into consideration as well. Last year, he paired a 2000 Margaux with prime rib that guests are still raving about.
“My belief is that a meal without wine is like a day without sunshine,” says Huynh.
Transitioning Into Fall With Wine
Link to RMGT article published October 2011
As the season changes, so should your wine list. Learn what’s hot for this fall season.
It is that time of year again. The leaves are turning yellow, football season has commenced and the Pumpkin Spice latte is back on the Starbucks menu. As your menu changes to reflect fall flavors, your wine list should too.
“Fall wines tend to emanate the signs of fall, both in color and in taste,” says Michael Taylor Senior Wine Director of ENO Wine Room in Chicago’s Intercontinental Hotel.
Alsatian Riesling
Many people stereotype Riesling as sweet, but Alsatian Rieslings are fermented to dryness. They have fuller body and higher alcohol than their German counterparts due to the “rain shadow effect” created by the Vosges Mountains. It is one of France’s driest and sunniest wine regions with a semi-continental climate. This allows the grapes to ripen to higher sugar levels while retaining their naturally high acidity. Typical aromas include dried apricot, overripe peach, candied ginger, honey, petrol, and slate.
“My favorite fall wine is Riesling which is great transitionalwine from the hot and sticky summer season to the cold and wet winter months,” says Scott Smith, Sommelier and Managing Partner of the Rockford-based SBS Consulting Group. “It pairs exceptionally well with traditional late summer and early winter dishes.”
Food Pairing: scallops, turkey, veal, curried butternut squash soup
Burgundy Pinot Noir
Wine production in Burgundy dates back to 200 AD and fetches some of the highest prices at auction internationally. For example, in June 2011 during an auction at Christie's Geneva a private American buyer bid $123,889 for a 750 ml bottle of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1945. Pinot Noir is a thin skin varietal, making it a pre-Madonna demanding perfect conditions. The quality is heavily dependent on producer, vineyard and vintage, creating the allure for the perfect Burgundy. Typical aromas for Pinot Noir include red fruit like cherries, strawberries, and cranberries, violets, tomato leaf, cured meats and black tea.
“In preparation for fall, I am putting away the Sauvignon Blanc glasses to prime the Burgundies,” says Taylor. His favorite Burgundy for fall is by François Mikulski from Pommard, which is located in the Côte de Beaune.
Food Pairing: chicken, turkey, duck, truffles, risotto
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, meaning new castle of the Pope, is located in the Southern Rhone Valley. Bottles that are embossed with a papal crest on the shoulder are 100 percent estate-bottled. The region has a Mediterranean climate and is known for the pudding stones, or galets, that are made of quartzite and smoothed by the river. The galets store the day’s heat, keeping the vines warm at night. Although 13 varietals are permitted in the final blend, the main grapes used are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Typical aromas include strawberry compote, raspberry, black cherry, raisins, powdered sugar, grenadine, black pepper, and picholine olives. The palate is slightly sweet and oxidative, which makes it pair well with spicy or hearty cuisine.
“I tend to choose medium bodied reds this time of the year, such as Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo and various blends from the Rhone,” says Taylor. He recommends Domaine de Marcoux from Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Food Pairing: cassoulet, duck, short ribs, lamb
Piedmont Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo, named after the morning fog, nebbia, is a thin-skinned grape varietal that thrives in Piedmont. The region has a continental climate and the Alps provide a rain shadow effect. Although the region has more Denominazione di origine controllata, or DOC, zones than any other region in Italy with 16 DOCG’s and over 40 DOC’s, the two most prestigious are Barolo and Barbaresco. Typical aromas include dried sour red cherry, tar, dried rose petal, red licorice, fennel bulb, truffle, clay, and cinnamon. Structurally, it has high tannins, high acidity, with medium plus to high alcohol. All of which make it ideal for pairing with food, especially rich protein to tone down the tannins.
Andres Munoz Honiball, restaurant manager of Chicago-based NoMI, recommends Elio Grasso Langhe Nebbiolo. “You don’t have to wait a decade to let it open up and taste like what the grape is supposed to taste like,” says Honiball. “It is soft and subtle with rose and tar notes and has enough acidity and tannins to complement a fall cuisine.”
Food Pairing: black truffles, risotto, stew, rich meat and game
Spanish Tempranillo
Rioja, located in North-Central Spain, is the most well-known region for Tempranillo. The wine can be blended with Garnacha (Grenache), Mazuelo (Carignan) and Graciano. When phylloxera struck France in the 1850’s, French winemakers purchased juice from Rioja to bridge the gap of their loss. Rioja is traditionally aged in American oak barriques due to the history of transatlantic colonial trade, which gives it the distinct aromas of vanilla, dill and coconut. Other aromas include
stewed strawberry, tart raspberry, Twizzlers, sun-dried tomato, bay leaf, and green tobacco. Structurally, it has medium plus acidity and ranges between medium and medium plus alcohol.
“My favorite fall wines are ones that complement the wonderful food, such as Côtes du Rhône, Burgundian Pinot Noirs, and Spanish Tempranillo,”says wine director for Margaux Bistro & Wine Bar in Sheboygan, WI. Jaclyn Stuart. “At Margaux, I change the wine by the glass each time the menu changes, which is seasonally. This ensures that the wines offered will pair with chef's menu selections and the current season.”
Food Pairing: grilled octopus, poultry, barbequed meats, steak
As the season changes, so should your wine list. Learn what’s hot for this fall season.
It is that time of year again. The leaves are turning yellow, football season has commenced and the Pumpkin Spice latte is back on the Starbucks menu. As your menu changes to reflect fall flavors, your wine list should too.
“Fall wines tend to emanate the signs of fall, both in color and in taste,” says Michael Taylor Senior Wine Director of ENO Wine Room in Chicago’s Intercontinental Hotel.
Alsatian Riesling
Many people stereotype Riesling as sweet, but Alsatian Rieslings are fermented to dryness. They have fuller body and higher alcohol than their German counterparts due to the “rain shadow effect” created by the Vosges Mountains. It is one of France’s driest and sunniest wine regions with a semi-continental climate. This allows the grapes to ripen to higher sugar levels while retaining their naturally high acidity. Typical aromas include dried apricot, overripe peach, candied ginger, honey, petrol, and slate.
“My favorite fall wine is Riesling which is great transitionalwine from the hot and sticky summer season to the cold and wet winter months,” says Scott Smith, Sommelier and Managing Partner of the Rockford-based SBS Consulting Group. “It pairs exceptionally well with traditional late summer and early winter dishes.”
Food Pairing: scallops, turkey, veal, curried butternut squash soup
Burgundy Pinot Noir
Wine production in Burgundy dates back to 200 AD and fetches some of the highest prices at auction internationally. For example, in June 2011 during an auction at Christie's Geneva a private American buyer bid $123,889 for a 750 ml bottle of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1945. Pinot Noir is a thin skin varietal, making it a pre-Madonna demanding perfect conditions. The quality is heavily dependent on producer, vineyard and vintage, creating the allure for the perfect Burgundy. Typical aromas for Pinot Noir include red fruit like cherries, strawberries, and cranberries, violets, tomato leaf, cured meats and black tea.
“In preparation for fall, I am putting away the Sauvignon Blanc glasses to prime the Burgundies,” says Taylor. His favorite Burgundy for fall is by François Mikulski from Pommard, which is located in the Côte de Beaune.
Food Pairing: chicken, turkey, duck, truffles, risotto
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, meaning new castle of the Pope, is located in the Southern Rhone Valley. Bottles that are embossed with a papal crest on the shoulder are 100 percent estate-bottled. The region has a Mediterranean climate and is known for the pudding stones, or galets, that are made of quartzite and smoothed by the river. The galets store the day’s heat, keeping the vines warm at night. Although 13 varietals are permitted in the final blend, the main grapes used are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Typical aromas include strawberry compote, raspberry, black cherry, raisins, powdered sugar, grenadine, black pepper, and picholine olives. The palate is slightly sweet and oxidative, which makes it pair well with spicy or hearty cuisine.
“I tend to choose medium bodied reds this time of the year, such as Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo and various blends from the Rhone,” says Taylor. He recommends Domaine de Marcoux from Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Food Pairing: cassoulet, duck, short ribs, lamb
Piedmont Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo, named after the morning fog, nebbia, is a thin-skinned grape varietal that thrives in Piedmont. The region has a continental climate and the Alps provide a rain shadow effect. Although the region has more Denominazione di origine controllata, or DOC, zones than any other region in Italy with 16 DOCG’s and over 40 DOC’s, the two most prestigious are Barolo and Barbaresco. Typical aromas include dried sour red cherry, tar, dried rose petal, red licorice, fennel bulb, truffle, clay, and cinnamon. Structurally, it has high tannins, high acidity, with medium plus to high alcohol. All of which make it ideal for pairing with food, especially rich protein to tone down the tannins.
Andres Munoz Honiball, restaurant manager of Chicago-based NoMI, recommends Elio Grasso Langhe Nebbiolo. “You don’t have to wait a decade to let it open up and taste like what the grape is supposed to taste like,” says Honiball. “It is soft and subtle with rose and tar notes and has enough acidity and tannins to complement a fall cuisine.”
Food Pairing: black truffles, risotto, stew, rich meat and game
Spanish Tempranillo
Rioja, located in North-Central Spain, is the most well-known region for Tempranillo. The wine can be blended with Garnacha (Grenache), Mazuelo (Carignan) and Graciano. When phylloxera struck France in the 1850’s, French winemakers purchased juice from Rioja to bridge the gap of their loss. Rioja is traditionally aged in American oak barriques due to the history of transatlantic colonial trade, which gives it the distinct aromas of vanilla, dill and coconut. Other aromas include
stewed strawberry, tart raspberry, Twizzlers, sun-dried tomato, bay leaf, and green tobacco. Structurally, it has medium plus acidity and ranges between medium and medium plus alcohol.
“My favorite fall wines are ones that complement the wonderful food, such as Côtes du Rhône, Burgundian Pinot Noirs, and Spanish Tempranillo,”says wine director for Margaux Bistro & Wine Bar in Sheboygan, WI. Jaclyn Stuart. “At Margaux, I change the wine by the glass each time the menu changes, which is seasonally. This ensures that the wines offered will pair with chef's menu selections and the current season.”
Food Pairing: grilled octopus, poultry, barbequed meats, steak
Monday, September 19, 2011
Reimagine Croatian Wine

Croatia has the right tools of a wine-producing region and with entry pending into the EU, it's redefining its international wine image.
Link to RMGT article published September 2011
With a rich history of winemaking that goes back to the fourth century B.C. and a blank canvas on which to rediscover itself since gaining independence 20 years ago, Croatia seems poised for success as a quality wine-producing region.
Add in a Mediterranean climate, indigenous grapes growing in stunningly beautiful landscapes, and a romantic history. Pending entry into the European Union further accentuates its image as an emerging wine region.
Croatian wines are generating a lot of buzz recently. Much of it stems from the social networking and promotional activities of Wines of Croatia, an organization founded in 2009 by New York City-based certified sommelier Cliff Rames. In recent months Croatian wines have been featured at the first ever Wines of Croatia Grand Portfolio Tasting in New York City, at the North American Wine Bloggers Conference, and in a full-color spread in Wine Enthusiast magazine. This year, several wineries partnered with the Croatian Chamber of the Economy to establish the first ever Association of Winemakers of Croatia. The mission of the association will be to support Wines of Croatia and further develop ongoing promotional activities and events to showcase Croatian wines.
Sommeliers, including Chantelle Pabros, owner of Chicago-based VINERA wine consulting company, are spreading the word about Croatian wines. For Pabros, it was love at first sight. In fact, the name of her company originates from the sailboat she was aboard during her first visit to Croatia in 2007.
“Once you have it, you can never forget it,” Pabros says. “When you are a sommelier, you are an ambassador to the farmer. You appreciate the blood, sweat and tears that go into every wine that is made.”
The paradoxical advantage for Croatian winemakers is starting from scratch after gaining independence in 1991, but also having an extensive history. Young winemakers are traveling the world to discover modern technologies and apply them in Croatia. Experimentation with winemaking, such as oak usage or concrete egg fermentation tanks, is allowing them to find their unique style. Indigenous varieties, such as Plavac Mali, thrive in the parched limestone soils of the coast, providing a strong sense of terroir.
Most red wine production is on the southwestern coast and Dalmatian Islands, where Plavac Mali (pronounced plah-vahtz mah-lee) grapes cover the steep slopes overlooking the crystal turquoise blue sea. The narrow, mountainous Pelješac peninsula is four miles wide at its broadest point, and 40 miles long and home to Dingač, Croatia’s first protected wine region since 1961. Hvar Island is known for lush vineyards, rocky terrain, abundant olive groves, and endless fields of lavender. Its wine complements some of the freshest seafood that the Mediterranean has to offer.
The main challenges facing Croatian wines on the international market include lower-quality producers, a language barrier and skeptical wine buyers. There are many mass-produced wines that tarnish the image, similar to what Yellow Tail did for Australia. Croatia is rich with indigenous grape varieties that grow nowhere else in the world and deliver characteristics that many wine lovers have never discovered before. For this reason, Croatian wines must be hand sold by sommeliers and retailers.
According to Daniel Pedisich, owner of Oenocentric, the consumer reaction to Croatian wines is much better than that of wine buyers. The New York City-based importing company carries nine producers from Croatia, including Ernest Tolj’s Saint Hills winery from Dingač.
“Restaurant wine buyers are skeptical that Croatian wine will sell successfully,” Pedisich says. “Nine times out of 10, the wines will be successful as long as you have people backing them and educating their guests.”
Tolj invited world-famous wine consultant Michel Rolland to Croatia to make the best wine possible. Having never heard about or tasted Croatian wine before, Rolland accepted out of curiosity even though he was not interested in taking on any new projects. When he visited Dingač he was stunned by the beauty: sun, sea and soil. He sat on a rock and called his wife to say: “Honey, This is where I want to die!” He turned to Tolj and announced: “I am in! I thought you were crazy, but if I don't make the best wine here, I quit my job!”
The rest is history, or at least history in the making. Saint Hills Dingač Plavac Mali is fermented in large wooden vats and aged in new French oak barrels for 18 months. According to Tolj, when he started making wine he knew his market niche: low yield, high quality, the best terroir and technology combined with Rolland’s knowledge and skills.
Some markets have been quicker than others to jump on the Croatian wine boat. Arthur Hon, wine buyer at Sepia restaurant in Chicago, says he has always found current emerging European wine regions fascinating, including Croatia’s.
“Part of the reason that they really pique my interest is because I find these areas obscure the stereotypical wine distinctions between ‘Old World’ and ‘New World,’” Hon says. “The practicality of Croatian wines I have listed work really well with a wide range of dishes.”
Croatian wines to look for include Plavac Mali grown on Hvar Island and Pelješac, including Dingač and Postup; Malvasia from Istria; Babić from Primošten; and Pošip from Korčula Island. Vlado Krauthaker, Alen Bibich, Ivica Matošević, Andro Tomić, Korta Katarina, Saint Hills, Bruno Trapan, Luka Krajančić and Zlatan Plenkovic are just a few examples of cutting-edge winemakers and wineries in Croatia.
“Restaurant owners and beverage directors should always look at ways to make their wine lists more interesting and ‘buzz worthy,’” Rames says. “Croatian wines add an element of coolness, diversity, and off-the-beaten-path open-mindedness to a wine list.”
Monday, August 15, 2011
Wine Lists Go Digital

Link to RMGT article published August 2011
This is my second column for RMGT (Restaurant Management) Magazine. It was difficult to compress all the information into 750 words after I interviewed roughly a dozen companies. My goal was to write a go-to column about software available for digital wine lists, not to market one company over another. Since its development, companies providing digital access have been born (practically) over-night leaving the restaurant owner weeding through promotional jargon to discover which system is best for them. When it comes down to it, it depends on the amount of information you want to provide and if you use an iPad- versus a tablet-compatible program. The pricing varies based on the level of customization, troubleshooting and set-up assistance provided.
I look forward to hearing your feedback.
Cheers,
Amy Payne
Friday, July 1, 2011
My First Article as a Wine Columnist
Link to RMGT artcle published July 2011
This has been my favorite article to write and research yet. Riesling is hands down my desert island wine, so it was easy to make a case for why it is a great summer porch pounder. I am very well aware it is much more than that, but the more we get the word out there that it's more than simply sweet syrupy blah, the better. Riesling, more than just your grandma's sweet wine. I hope you enjoy it and look for my column next month!
Cheers,
Amy Payne
Riesling, More Than Just Your Grandma’s Sweet Wine
With the many intricacies that Riesling has to offer, calling it merely a summer wine is almost a slap in the face. But with recent consumer awareness and the backing of the sommelier community, it is a wine you cannot neglect on this summer’s selections.
“It goes with everything” was the marketing campaign that Blue Nun used to storm the U.S. markets in the mid-1980s, selling 1.5 million cases in its peak year. They got one thing right; Riesling is one of the most versatile wines to pair with food. But they also tainted the consumer opinion of the grape.
Many consumers today associate Riesling with the mass-produced, semisweet Liebfraumilch, a blend of primarily high yielding grapes such as Sylvaner and Müller-Thurgau. Exported German wines have come a long way since ‘grandma’s sweet wine'. Riesling is finally starting to get some credit, despite Blue Nun.
Riesling dates back to the 15th century in Rheingau and is nearly every sommelier’s desert island wine.
“I always get a raised eyebrow when I tell people my favorite grape varietal is Riesling,” explained Alpana Singh, Master Sommelier and Director of wine and spirits for Lettuce Entertain You in Chicago. “People usually think it is a cheap wine. The average consumer has been trained to stay away from sweet wines, thinking they aren’t sophisticated.”
Eddie Osterland, America’s first Master Sommelier, attributes a 1966 Jos. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling feinste Auslese to his career choice in wine, coining it as his light bulb wine. “It grabbed me by my senses and said slow down,” exuded
Osterland.
There are two different kinds of Riesling drinkers: the white Zinfandel sweet wine lovers and the true wine geeks. The dichotomy between consumer and professional opinions leaves Riesling as one of the best kept secrets in the wine industry.
Damon Goldstein, owner of San Diego-based German wine importing company Truly Fine Wines Inc., says his biggest challenge has been defeating the consumer misconception of the varietal.
“Riesling is a polarized grape consumed by the top 5 percent and bottom 5 percent,” said Goldstein. “The 90 percent in the middle don’t know the first thing about Riesling.”
Riesling used to fetch higher prices than first growth Bordeaux. In 1890 a case of Château Lafitte sold for 40 shillings, while a case of wine from the Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard sold for 63 shillings.
According to the Pacific Rim Riesling Wine Rules pamphlet, Riesling exports from Germany have been on the rise since 2001, with the U.S. becoming its second largest export market. Sommeliers are the front runners of its resurgence.
“It’s really not just one grape, it’s a bunch of different grapes depending on the style that you are playing with,” said Shayn Bjornholm, Master Sommelier and Education Director of the Washington State Wine Commission.
Riesling is classified as a noble varietal due to its diversity, age worthiness, complexity of aromatics, expression of place, historical relevance, acidity and food pairing qualities. It has the widest range in style of any other white grape: from sparkling to still wine, bone dry to ice wine and tba, and between 6.5 percent and 14 percent alcohol.
“There are not many 20 dollar wines that could age for 100 years,” said Geoff Kruth, Master Sommelier and Wine Director of Sonoma’s Farmhouse Inn. “What you get for your money is remarkable.”
According to Kevin Zraly of Windows on the World wine school, 90 percent of wines produced today are meant to be consumed within one year of bottling. Riesling is one of the few white grapes that come into its own with age, developing secondary tertiary aromas. It makes for a wise investment as a buyer because you don’t have to worry about selling it quickly.
The Germans make their wine like they make their cars: with precision. Twenty percent of Germany’s vineyards are planted with Riesling, most of which are on steep mountainside slopes to increase sun exposure. This demands hand harvesting and makes rich soils scarce due to avalanches from rain.
“It is noble because it’s a diva and needs the right conditions to grow well,” said Singh.
Because Riesling needs the perfect conditions to thrive, there is not anymore area to expand production in Germany. The majority of winemakers only produce 50-75,000 bottles a year, which is mostly consumed locally or throughout Europe. The laws of supply and demand would say that Riesling is a hot commodity.
Unlike any other grape, Riesling expresses a unique place. Fernando Beteta, Master Sommelier and Education Director for Chicago’s Tenzing Wine and Spirits says it serves as an amplifier of terrior, meaning it is a blank canvas for the soil and climate to express itself.
Riesling is also known for having lower alcohol and piercingly high acidity, food pairings best friend. We have all heard of pairing Riesling with complex, spicy cuisines like Thai Food,but it’s time to start thinking out of the box.
“Its structure lends itself to different foods more than any other wine,” said Kruth. Try Korean barbecue and beef short ribs. The Riesling cuts through the fat and complements the charred flavors, mirin, soy and brown sugar. Other pairing ideas include bright summer sauces, grilled vegetables and barbequed meats or salty pork dishes.
The first 100 percent Riesling vineyard was planted in 1716 at Schloss Johannisberg in the Rheingau, thus the origin of the term, Johannisberg Riesling. It is hard to classify a grape with such a strong history as simply a summer quaffer. But the lower alcohol levels make it an optimal choice for drinking under the sun.
“Riesling can make a good porch pounder,” said Bjornholm.“The higher acidity leaves you feeling quenched and lifted up instead of weighted down.”
To target the 90 percent of consumers that are still out of the Riesling loop, you must know your audience. The two largest groups of wine consumers are the baby boomers at 77 million and the millennium generation at 70 million. Zraly says that of the two, the millennium is consuming the most.
According to Kruth, the best way to appeal to the consumer is to either use appropriate pairings or sell them old enough so the sweetness is not as obvious. He also says it is important to not push Riesling on the wrong people.
“Once they get it in the glass, the majority of folks usually dig it,” explained Bjornholm.
Riesling is grown in many regions around the world. Although Germany is often considered the benchmark, other regions to look for include Washington State, New York, New Zealand, Austria and Alsace.
“People are starting to understand the grape and trust sommeliers. I am looking forward to the future of Riesling blowing up,” stated Bjornholm.
This has been my favorite article to write and research yet. Riesling is hands down my desert island wine, so it was easy to make a case for why it is a great summer porch pounder. I am very well aware it is much more than that, but the more we get the word out there that it's more than simply sweet syrupy blah, the better. Riesling, more than just your grandma's sweet wine. I hope you enjoy it and look for my column next month!
Cheers,
Amy Payne
Riesling, More Than Just Your Grandma’s Sweet Wine
With the many intricacies that Riesling has to offer, calling it merely a summer wine is almost a slap in the face. But with recent consumer awareness and the backing of the sommelier community, it is a wine you cannot neglect on this summer’s selections.
“It goes with everything” was the marketing campaign that Blue Nun used to storm the U.S. markets in the mid-1980s, selling 1.5 million cases in its peak year. They got one thing right; Riesling is one of the most versatile wines to pair with food. But they also tainted the consumer opinion of the grape.
Many consumers today associate Riesling with the mass-produced, semisweet Liebfraumilch, a blend of primarily high yielding grapes such as Sylvaner and Müller-Thurgau. Exported German wines have come a long way since ‘grandma’s sweet wine'. Riesling is finally starting to get some credit, despite Blue Nun.
Riesling dates back to the 15th century in Rheingau and is nearly every sommelier’s desert island wine.
“I always get a raised eyebrow when I tell people my favorite grape varietal is Riesling,” explained Alpana Singh, Master Sommelier and Director of wine and spirits for Lettuce Entertain You in Chicago. “People usually think it is a cheap wine. The average consumer has been trained to stay away from sweet wines, thinking they aren’t sophisticated.”
Eddie Osterland, America’s first Master Sommelier, attributes a 1966 Jos. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling feinste Auslese to his career choice in wine, coining it as his light bulb wine. “It grabbed me by my senses and said slow down,” exuded
Osterland.
There are two different kinds of Riesling drinkers: the white Zinfandel sweet wine lovers and the true wine geeks. The dichotomy between consumer and professional opinions leaves Riesling as one of the best kept secrets in the wine industry.
Damon Goldstein, owner of San Diego-based German wine importing company Truly Fine Wines Inc., says his biggest challenge has been defeating the consumer misconception of the varietal.
“Riesling is a polarized grape consumed by the top 5 percent and bottom 5 percent,” said Goldstein. “The 90 percent in the middle don’t know the first thing about Riesling.”
Riesling used to fetch higher prices than first growth Bordeaux. In 1890 a case of Château Lafitte sold for 40 shillings, while a case of wine from the Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard sold for 63 shillings.
According to the Pacific Rim Riesling Wine Rules pamphlet, Riesling exports from Germany have been on the rise since 2001, with the U.S. becoming its second largest export market. Sommeliers are the front runners of its resurgence.
“It’s really not just one grape, it’s a bunch of different grapes depending on the style that you are playing with,” said Shayn Bjornholm, Master Sommelier and Education Director of the Washington State Wine Commission.
Riesling is classified as a noble varietal due to its diversity, age worthiness, complexity of aromatics, expression of place, historical relevance, acidity and food pairing qualities. It has the widest range in style of any other white grape: from sparkling to still wine, bone dry to ice wine and tba, and between 6.5 percent and 14 percent alcohol.
“There are not many 20 dollar wines that could age for 100 years,” said Geoff Kruth, Master Sommelier and Wine Director of Sonoma’s Farmhouse Inn. “What you get for your money is remarkable.”
According to Kevin Zraly of Windows on the World wine school, 90 percent of wines produced today are meant to be consumed within one year of bottling. Riesling is one of the few white grapes that come into its own with age, developing secondary tertiary aromas. It makes for a wise investment as a buyer because you don’t have to worry about selling it quickly.
The Germans make their wine like they make their cars: with precision. Twenty percent of Germany’s vineyards are planted with Riesling, most of which are on steep mountainside slopes to increase sun exposure. This demands hand harvesting and makes rich soils scarce due to avalanches from rain.
“It is noble because it’s a diva and needs the right conditions to grow well,” said Singh.
Because Riesling needs the perfect conditions to thrive, there is not anymore area to expand production in Germany. The majority of winemakers only produce 50-75,000 bottles a year, which is mostly consumed locally or throughout Europe. The laws of supply and demand would say that Riesling is a hot commodity.
Unlike any other grape, Riesling expresses a unique place. Fernando Beteta, Master Sommelier and Education Director for Chicago’s Tenzing Wine and Spirits says it serves as an amplifier of terrior, meaning it is a blank canvas for the soil and climate to express itself.
Riesling is also known for having lower alcohol and piercingly high acidity, food pairings best friend. We have all heard of pairing Riesling with complex, spicy cuisines like Thai Food,but it’s time to start thinking out of the box.
“Its structure lends itself to different foods more than any other wine,” said Kruth. Try Korean barbecue and beef short ribs. The Riesling cuts through the fat and complements the charred flavors, mirin, soy and brown sugar. Other pairing ideas include bright summer sauces, grilled vegetables and barbequed meats or salty pork dishes.
The first 100 percent Riesling vineyard was planted in 1716 at Schloss Johannisberg in the Rheingau, thus the origin of the term, Johannisberg Riesling. It is hard to classify a grape with such a strong history as simply a summer quaffer. But the lower alcohol levels make it an optimal choice for drinking under the sun.
“Riesling can make a good porch pounder,” said Bjornholm.“The higher acidity leaves you feeling quenched and lifted up instead of weighted down.”
To target the 90 percent of consumers that are still out of the Riesling loop, you must know your audience. The two largest groups of wine consumers are the baby boomers at 77 million and the millennium generation at 70 million. Zraly says that of the two, the millennium is consuming the most.
According to Kruth, the best way to appeal to the consumer is to either use appropriate pairings or sell them old enough so the sweetness is not as obvious. He also says it is important to not push Riesling on the wrong people.
“Once they get it in the glass, the majority of folks usually dig it,” explained Bjornholm.
Riesling is grown in many regions around the world. Although Germany is often considered the benchmark, other regions to look for include Washington State, New York, New Zealand, Austria and Alsace.
“People are starting to understand the grape and trust sommeliers. I am looking forward to the future of Riesling blowing up,” stated Bjornholm.
Friday, June 24, 2011
Michelin and A Mom
http://karjay.wordpress.com/2011/06/24/fish-n-chips/
Check out my first blog with Chef Jason McLeod recommending wines for his take on Fish n Chips. I started off by offering three choices to show people that there isn't always just one option for pairing wine. It isn't a science, it's a subjective art.
Check out my first blog with Chef Jason McLeod recommending wines for his take on Fish n Chips. I started off by offering three choices to show people that there isn't always just one option for pairing wine. It isn't a science, it's a subjective art.
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